Whenever compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned high-end names. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of northern London.
This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the family utterly surprised.
“I am completely astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.
Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.
It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.
It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.
The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.